Puka shells, the tiny iridescent holes found on Hawaiian coral or clam shells, are a staple of island jewelry. The little treasures are known to invite wealth and prosperity in one’s life, which is why they’re often worn as a necklace or even a ring!

Despite a ’90s-era fall from grace, the beachy shell jewelry is back. In fact, it’s a fashion trend that never really left—it just went through a major makeover. The beachy embellishment is now cropping up in everything from chokers to statement earrings and has reclaimed its spot as the perfect accessory for a warm-weather getaway. And it’s not just beach-ready looks: Gigi Hadid was recently spotted wearing a puka shell cuff during Paris Fashion Week.

The resurgence is due to a number of factors, including their affordability and versatility. “Pukas are available in a variety of sizes and styles, from tiny studs to large strands,” Kienow says. They also come in a range of colors from white to pink and beyond.

Another factor is their authenticity. Kienow says that until recently most puka shells sold in the United States were actually imported from the Philippines, where clam shells are cut, bleached and polished for jewelry-making.

The real deal, she explains, will have spiral markings inside the hole and will look shiny and smooth rather than rough or dull. (Although Kienow concedes that there are a few exceptions to the rule.) Those looking to purchase authentic Hawaiian puka shells can check out the Where to Buy page on the Hawaiian Cultural Advisors website for locations throughout the islands. Or they can shop online, which is where most of the modern puka-imbued jewelry is now being sold. Puka shell ring

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